A Collector's Guide to Vintage Chanel Costume Jewelry

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel did more than anyone to make costume jewelry chic. In the 1920s and 1930s she layered long ropes of faux pearls and bold glass jewels over simple clothes, insisting that jewelry should be worn for its beauty, not its value. That idea still defines the house, and vintage Chanel remains among the most sought-after costume jewelry in the world.

Signature motifs

• Pearls, from single strands to long, layered sautoirs.
• Chains in gilt metal, often woven with leather or combined with medallions.
• The interlocking CC, quilting patterns, hearts, camellias and coins.
• Poured glass by the Paris workshop Gripoix, whose glowing colored glass was used in many Chanel designs.

Reading the marks

Chanel costume jewelry is typically stamped "CHANEL" with "Made in France", often on a small plaque or cartouche. Many later pieces also carry a year and a season code, such as "96 A", which helps date a piece precisely. Marks vary by period, so we always describe the exact signature in each listing.

What affects value

Design, rarity and condition matter most: the integrity of the gilt finish, the lustre of the pearls and whether any stones have been replaced. Iconic motifs and runway-era pieces are especially collectable.

Chanel in the collection

Explore our Chanel collection, including the 1995 logo and heart cuff, the gold link cuff, the three-strand bracelet and 2006 earrings. For more designers, see Shop by Designer.